Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Metal Siding Painting Advice

Painting metal and aluminum siding can become a nightmare if not done right. Over the years I have worked on and repaired many homes with metal siding. Metal siding is real common in mobile homes. Most older mobile homes use aluminum paneling for their exterior siding.

Most painted metal siding seems to last at least 20 years. The reason for this is the paint is baked on in a factory giving it a high quality and nice looking surface. This baked on method is used for painting aluminum and most metals siding that gives the product a long life.

I lived in a mobile home park for a few years and my next door neighbor's mobile home had never been painted and was over 45 years old. He would go out and washed the mobile home once a year with some TSP soap while using a brush on the end of an extension pole to clean the home.

His mobile home might not have looked brand new but it was definitely in great shape. Over the years he had developed a few scratches and some dirt that was hard to wash off but that was about the extent of the damage to the painted metal siding.

Well we painted our mobile home and used an expensive metal primer along with some expensive paint from Dunn Edwards & Co... This paint worked great. We lived there for around four years and never had any problems once the home was painted. Having been in the construction business I knew we had to use a good metal paint primer in order for the paint to stick to the baked on paint process for the metal siding to look good.

Here's my advice to you when painting metal siding.

1. Make sure the metal siding is clean. Use TSP soap along with a scrub brush and scrub that baby clean. The cleaner the metal surface the better the new paint primer will stick or adhere to the old paint.
2. Follow the instructions carefully on the paint primer can when applying the primer. Do not paint below or above the recommended paint temperatures.
3. Make sure you explain to the paint salesman at whatever store you're in that you are going to be painting metal siding. Get the right paint primer.
4. I would love to recommend a paint primer but cannot because I don't want to get a phone call from anyone a few years from now telling me the paint is peeling off of their home. Let that responsibility become the paint manufacturers.
5. Let the paint primer dry for the recommended time as per the directions on the paint primer can. I prefer letting the paint dry at least one week. The reason for this is some paint primer's stay soft for a while and if you paint over them immediately they doesn't seem to bond as good and sometimes will stay soft for a long period of time.
6. Apply your final coats of paint following the manufacturer's instructions on the paint can.

There you have it painting metal siding is all in the preparation of the surface you are painting.

Have fun painting and always read and follow the manufacturer's recommended instructions for the products you are using. These people test their products constantly and know the best way to apply them to any surface.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on different Types Of House Siding

Patio Enclosed For Living Area
Surviving As A Contractor

Monday, March 30, 2009

Does Home Improvement Still Make Sense In A Housing Slump?

Last night I watched a home improvement show in which a Florida couple had spent $50,000 updating their home. Now they were asking their realtor for a home appraisal. Amazingly, the realtor told them their renovation had increased the value of their home by $120,000 - more than a two-to-one return on their investment!

Cable TV is filled with shows like this that inspire homeowners to take on kitchen remodeling, bedroom makeovers or similar projects.

But many of these shows were filmed two or three years ago during the height of the housing boom.

As we enter 2008 we face a very different housing market in which nationwide home prices are stagnant and even declining in some markets.

In this sort of environment, does home improvement still make sense? The answer depends on what sort of home improvement you want to tackle.

Avoid Style Makeovers

First, it's time for a reality check. Even during the peak of the housing boom, the idea that remodeling your home produced a high return on investment was simply a myth.

According to 2004 survey by Remodeling Magazine, the average home renovation returned only 80% of its value at the time of resale.

So for every dollar you invested in a major renovation, you could expect $0.80 back in your pocket. And that was in 2004, when home values across the country were climbing at an unprecedented rate.

If you want a style makeover to make yourself happy, by all means you should do it. But you shouldn't expect it to dramatically increase the resale value of your home.

In fact, your taste could well end up driving away potential buyers. Personal tastes can be tricky. You may love red and gold walls in your living room, but some buyers will see this as a liability that needs to be fixed.

Even if your tastes are in step with current tastes, styles will change over time. Your choice of kitchen tile and countertops may be in line with current fashion, but if you don't plan to sell your home for another ten years, the style may well be dated when you sell.

Keep in Step with Your Neighborhood

Your home's location is still the biggest factor determining its value. With that in mind, renovations make the most sense if they bring your house up to the norm for the neighborhood.

If your 3,000 square foot home has only two bathrooms, adding a third bathroom makes sense. If all other homes in your neighborhood have a deck, then adding one to your home makes sense as well.

But this rule only applies to major items. Just because your neighbor added solid gold faucets and a sunken marble bathtub doesn't mean you should remodel your master bath to keep pace.

And if you are already the biggest house on the block, further home upgrades will do little to increase the value of your home.

Invest in Home Maintenance.

Home repairs and preventative maintenance are the best investment you can make in your house, and they make sense regardless of whether the housing market is in a boom or a bust. They won't necessarily raise the value of your home, but they can prevent your home from loosing far more value due to damage and wear.

Putting off repairs simply means they will cost more when you do get around to fixing them. A crack from a settling foundation will expand over time. Water damage from a leaky gutter will only cause further wear to your exterior walls.

When you sell your house these issues will almost certainly come up in the home inspection, and you may need to discount your home's price to allow the buyer to make repairs. Worse, too large a repair bill may simply scare a buyer away.

The Bottom Line:

Overall, the best advice is to invest in sound home improvements that keep your house in good shape and up to the standard of your neighborhood.

If you still want to make a style upgrade, that's fine. But do it for aesthetic reasons, not financial ones.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Ceramic Floor Tile Installation - 5 Tips For Success

Ceramic floor tile installation is a great way to get a long-lasting beautiful floor. There are several tricks to getting a great looking floor tile job though. Really getting off to the right start is key to a good looking floor. Get started right and you'll be pleased with the results.

The right start begins with the base over which you install the tile. You see tile can be installed over all kinds of materials. You can put tile over plywood, concrete, vinyl flooring or even over other ceramic tile. But the one must is that the surface must be stable. It can't be flexible and it can't bend. That's because the tile floor will crack if the underlying layers moves. Often the first step in a professional tile installation is installation of a layer of cement board. That often guarantees a rigid surface.

That solid base is part of the planning of a tile project. Planning and design of a tile project is a big part of a successful installation. Before that first tile is laid, check the squareness of the room. Have you ever seen a perfectly square room? You want to work from the best corner and plan to put he cut tiles in the least visible spot. Plan for where the cuts will be to get the best results.

Once you get started, the goal is to keep the tile spacing as even as possible. Tile spacers in the right width are the best tell to get this done. Also a simple carpenter square helps to keep a close check to maintain alignment. Often nailing down some straight guide boards, batten boards, is another helpful move. Especially for the first row of tiles, a guide board can help get you off to the right start.

At one or more walls you will cut the border tiles to fit the remaining space. Now cutting is one of the skills a tile setter gets to practice. You'll need tile nippers for small trim work and probably a wet tile saw. Sometimes on a floor job with just straight cuts, a cutter board may be all you need. This tool scores a tile with a groove so it can be easily broken. It takes a little practice to break the tile on the line.

Grouting the joints is the finishing step. Grout comes in several types. Some are acrylic. Some are masonry. Some are epoxy. The epoxy grout is really waterproof and is especially well suited in bathrooms to keep water from soaking into the floor.

Ceramic floor tile installation requires quite a bit of planning. A well planned job will result in the best looking floor with the minimum of waste. Ceramic floors also are a great place to show creativity in mixing tiles into patterns. There are some tricks to getting a tile floor just right. If you get a chance, it helps to watch a pro work on a job or two.

You can get access to video tutorials showing a master installer do ceramic floor tile installation in several different rooms at our website.

Al Bullington invites you to visit http://InstallingCeramicTile.net for answers to your tile questions.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

What Does a GFI Do

In your bathroom you should have a GFI electrical outlet. Most new homes or newly remodeled homes require you to have GFI electrical outlets in the kitchen. Most older kitchens do not have GFI electrical outlets. GFI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter.

Why not call it a GFCI instead of a GFI electrical outlet? Well it is called a GFCI in some instances. GFI is short and is the most common name used by most electricians and builders for this type of outlet.

GFI 's come in 15 amp and 20 amperage outlets. GFI outlets must be wired properly. Make sure you're using the proper wire size when hooking up the GFI outlet.

How do I know which size wire to use? This all depends on how far away you are running it from the electrical panel. There are charts you can use to figure this out. If you are not running the electrical wire more than 80 feet from the electrical panel you can use 12 gauge electrical wires for a 20 amp GFI. This is a general rule of thumb for most electrical house wiring.

If you're going to be using a 15 amp GFI and you are going to be less than 80 feet away from the electrical panel you can use 14 gauge electrical wires. Again this is just a general rule of thumb for most electrical house wiring.

A GFI is a light duty electrical plug used in bathrooms, kitchens and the exterior of your house. The sole purpose of the GFI is to shut the breaker off faster if there is any moisture or light load problems.

Let's say for instance you have your hair dryer plugged into the GFI outlet. The hair dryer somehow falls into the sink while it is on or plugged in. The GFI outlet will instantly shut off because of the sensitivity of the breaker inside of the plug it self.

The GFI plug has a test button and a reset button on it. If you are continually resetting the GFI you will wear it out eventually. I have had GFI plugs after resetting the button about 10 times break and no longer able to use them.

The GFI electrical plug is a great idea and if you don't have them in your bathroom or outside of your home it would be a great idea to have an electrician install them for you.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Home Building Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

San Diego Termite Damage

What Does A Gfi Do

Stair Tread Brackets - Remodeling Tips

Metal stair tread brackets are used instead of wood cleats and for plenty of good reasons. These often become a safety hazard over time, as the wood starts to deteriorate. Metal, will not disintegrate as fast as the wood it is normally attached to. In most cases the wood stringers and steps will suffer from wood rot or termite damage before the metal brackets become a safety problem.

Metal stair brackets, often require lag screws instead of nails or screws to attach the stair step to the stringer. These lag screws are normally an inch and a quarter for the stair treads, if they are built from 2 x materials. For example a 2 x 12 or 2 x 14 stair tread will require lag screws that will not go through the wood step. A 2 inch like screw will easily go through an inch and a half stair tread. If you're building a stairway, this will be useful information.

Some metal stair connectors have four holes on each side of the metal bracket for the lag screws, while other metal stair brackets have three holes on each side. This normally depends on the thickness of the stair tread and the use of the stairway. Public stairways will normally require the stronger stair tread connector.

During my career of building stairways, I have seen quite a few metal stair tread brackets. Some builders had custom made brackets to meet specific stair tread applications, while others used Simpson products, that are more readily available to home builders and contractors.

One of the biggest problems I have noticed, using metal stair parts is the lag screws can loosen up over time, creating a safety hazard. Warping treads, along with stair steps that split where the lag screw is located, seem to be the biggest problems associated with metal brackets. There are stair building safety codes that should be followed when building or remodeling stairways.

Staircases are normally high traffic areas and should be maintained regularly. Public stairways with high traffic areas should be maintained more often. Anyone walking up and down the stairways should notify the building owner of any problems, to prevent accidents in the future.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on building straight stairs and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry

Planters Block Crawl Space Vents

Thursday, March 26, 2009

How to Protect a Home From a Hurricane

In recent years homeowners have been subjected to increased risk from flood and water damage as Mother Nature continues an active storm cycle and insurance companies reduce flood coverage. Learn how to protect your home from hurricane damage with these quick tips:

1. Check your insurance policy. The first step is to make sure you have coverage and understand any exclusions or imitations. For example, water damage due to high winds is very different than water damage due to storm surge or regular flooding. It's also a good idea to plan early; once a storm is named, most insurance policies forbid writing new policies.Those who wait until the last minute often find themselves without coverage.

2. Implement an immediate plan of action. If you experience water related damage due to a flood or hurricane it is importantto act fast. Mold and mildew can begin growing in as little as 24 to 48 hours. Always make sure the electricity to the home is turned off at the breaker box before doing anything. Once you are confident your personal safety is taken care of then it is time to go into action. Eliminate contaminated furniture, remove excess water and contact a company that is certified to deal with insurance claims for water restoration and renovation services. Commonly encountered problems include:

Properly performed repairs to wood floors, drywall, cabinets, underlayment and other building materials.

Proper cleaning of water damaged furniture, drapes, carpeting and even insulation or other materials in the home.

Proper disinfecting of air vents and elimination of bacteria, mold, mildew and other contaminates.

3. Keep copies of everything! Make copies of your insurance policy, contact phone numbers, photographs of belongings and other essential documents on hand or in a safe deposit box. Remember, you may need to leave on short notice so keep it
in a convenient location. If you have storm related damage, contact the insurance company as soon as possible to begin scheduling cleaning and remediation services.

4. Don't underestimate storms. During any crisis there are those who simply don't believe it will "be that bad" and others who are in denial. Chances are when you think of flood damage Houston doesn't come to mind...but recent media coverage has shown the tremendous amount of water damage Houston residents are now dealing with. Obviously it can and does happen anywhere - even Houston Texas. Listen to the media coverage and take appropriate action before the storm strikes to preserve the health of your family and pets first then deal with insurance claims and cleaning later by calling a company like Kiwi Services who is able to handle all your cleaning, extraction and restoration services with just one call.

Kiwi provides water damage houston, and flood damage houston services.

How to Protect a Home From a Hurricane

In recent years homeowners have been subjected to increased risk from flood and water damage as Mother Nature continues an active storm cycle and insurance companies reduce flood coverage. Learn how to protect your home from hurricane damage with these quick tips:

1. Check your insurance policy. The first step is to make sure you have coverage and understand any exclusions or imitations. For example, water damage due to high winds is very different than water damage due to storm surge or regular flooding. It's also a good idea to plan early; once a storm is named, most insurance policies forbid writing new policies.Those who wait until the last minute often find themselves without coverage.

2. Implement an immediate plan of action. If you experience water related damage due to a flood or hurricane it is importantto act fast. Mold and mildew can begin growing in as little as 24 to 48 hours. Always make sure the electricity to the home is turned off at the breaker box before doing anything. Once you are confident your personal safety is taken care of then it is time to go into action. Eliminate contaminated furniture, remove excess water and contact a company that is certified to deal with insurance claims for water restoration and renovation services. Commonly encountered problems include:

Properly performed repairs to wood floors, drywall, cabinets, underlayment and other building materials.

Proper cleaning of water damaged furniture, drapes, carpeting and even insulation or other materials in the home.

Proper disinfecting of air vents and elimination of bacteria, mold, mildew and other contaminates.

3. Keep copies of everything! Make copies of your insurance policy, contact phone numbers, photographs of belongings and other essential documents on hand or in a safe deposit box. Remember, you may need to leave on short notice so keep it
in a convenient location. If you have storm related damage, contact the insurance company as soon as possible to begin scheduling cleaning and remediation services.

4. Don't underestimate storms. During any crisis there are those who simply don't believe it will "be that bad" and others who are in denial. Chances are when you think of flood damage Houston doesn't come to mind...but recent media coverage has shown the tremendous amount of water damage Houston residents are now dealing with. Obviously it can and does happen anywhere - even Houston Texas. Listen to the media coverage and take appropriate action before the storm strikes to preserve the health of your family and pets first then deal with insurance claims and cleaning later by calling a company like Kiwi Services who is able to handle all your cleaning, extraction and restoration services with just one call.

Kiwi provides water damage houston, and flood damage houston services.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Supercharge Your Water Heater

Have you ever had to stand shivering in the cold morning air waiting for hot water with your arm outstretched, fingers extended into the cold stream of water. It seems to take forever for the water to get hot. Speed up your hot water with a hot water circulating system.

Traditionally, if you had a hot water circulating system, it meant that you had a hot water pipe that ran in a big loop from the outlet of the water heater to each fixture one after the other, and then back to the inlet of the water heater through a small pump. By continuously pumping water through the loop you have instant hot water at every fixture.

This is very convenient. Hotels and motels have hot water circulating systems; otherwise it could take hours to get hot water with such long pipes as they have.

However, instant hot water is also very expensive. Not only do you have to pay for the energy to run the pump continuously for long periods of time or even full time, but you also have to pay for the heat energy being radiated into the environment from that big loop of hot water piping. The cost of heating the water is considerably more than the cost to run the pump.

There are a number of manufacturers producing hot water circulating systems that utilize the cold water line as the hot water return line.

Some of these pumping systems use small pumps that pump water very slowly, and are temperature controlled. The pump turns on when the water temperature drops below a set point, and then shuts off when the water temperature in the pipe reaches another set point. This keeps the water your entire piping system full of luke-warm water. The water is warmer near the water heater and colder the further you get from the water heater, but it is tepid through out the piping system.

Most folks don't really want the cold water pipe full of warm or tepid water. You don't get "Instant Hot Water" as the manufacturers claim. I think they should be honest and call them "Instant Tepid Water Systems". The Lang Auto-Circ and The Grundfos Comfort System are two such systems, and the Hot Water Lobster is another. The Hot Water Lobster doesn't have a pump, but relies on the fact that hot water rises, and the Lobster valve has to be substantially higher than the water heater for the system to work.

Unfortunately these systems consume much more energy since you are heating that big loop of piping and return line and its surroundings. The cost of the energy will far outweigh any monetary savings from the water conservation aspect.

Another class of systems that use the cold water line as the return line is the "Hot Water Demand Systems". These systems only pump the water to the fixture when hot water is "demanded" by the user. The pumping costs are small; typically demand systems use less than $2.00 per year in electricity costs. This is because they run for such a brief time, typically less than 1 minute per use.

When the user turns on the pump it runs until hot water reaches the fixture and then the pump automatically shuts off. The cold water line does not end up full of warm water.

With the demand system the energy consumed is no more than if the user just ran the tap as normal. Hot water is not being circulated. And since the hot water is not being circulated it does not affect the life of your tankless water heater or the warranty.

The water is pumped more quickly than if you ran the faucet full throttle. You save time, water, energy, and money!

There are at least three manufacturers of demand systems, Metlund, RedyTemp, and Chilipepper. The Chilipepper will run any tankless water heater. Some models of the Metlund system will run tankless water heaters, and some won't, so be sure to inquire before you make a purchase. The RedyTemp will not work with a tankless water heater.

Choose the type of system that best suits your needs and enjoy the added convenience of quick hot water while being kind to the planet.

For free information about water heaters and hot water circulating systems, visit Mr. Lund's website: All About Water Heaters Mr. Lund also has a website for information about making money online: Lund One - Make Money Online

Stair Building Books and Ideas

Where do we go to buy stair building books? Do we go to the major retailers like Amazon or Barnes & Noble? I have found over the years the information in most of these books I have purchased from these stores has a lot of fluff with very little common sense stair building application.

I bought one stair building book that had information on handrails. The front cover looked great and I thought this was going to be a great book reading the reviews from Amazon. When I finally got the book in the mail, I would say about one third of it was math tables for building elaborate wooden hand railing's. These tables were not easy to understand along with the rest of the book.

Back when I bought the book on building stair handrails it dawned on me that most of the construction workers I have met during my 30 years of working in the field were not very good outside of basic math. Now I knew a lot of carpenters that could read a measuring tape and use a framing square pretty good. But when it came to advanced geometrical construction projects like a stair hand railing system this was out of our league.

Reading this book or should I say parts of it gave me an idea to write a book of my own, starting with basic stair building I took all the fluff or the hard to understand advanced stair building applications out of my book, How to Build a Straight Set of Stairs.

I put a lot of time into creating an illustration for every possible part of building a simple set of stairs. I have probably built over 2000 sets of stairs during my lifetime and have explained and taught basic and advanced stair building to other carpenters. Understanding what parts of the stair construction process they understood, I was able to improve my skills as a stair building teacher.

Most people do not need advanced stair building skills to construct a simple straight set of stairs. If you are building a straight set of stairs and would like a stair building book with lots of easy to understand illustrations along with simplified directions you have found it.

We're building more stair building books to help contractors, carpenters, handymen and homeowners understand the stair building process.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Metal Guard Rail Inspection

Monday, March 23, 2009

Bathroom Moisture Problems - Home Remodeling

Right above my bathtub in my master bathroom the paint is peeling off the wall. The area is peeling above the tile in my bathtub and shower combination. I tried to glue the peeling paint back and only made the situation worst.

First things first. The paint is peeling because there is to much moisture in the bathroom while you are using it. Do you have any windows you can open or a ventilating bathroom fan. If you have a window crack it open part way while you are showering.

The water droplets will accumulate on the walls and drip into any cracks. Right above the tile grout is a great place for moisture to accumulate. Oh yeah moisture loves grout and drywall. If you have any unpainted areas or an area that has cracked. Guess what you have now.

Your paint is peeling because the bathroom gets hot and cold. Moist and dry. If you have the door and windows shut. You just created a moisture trap. Most people prefer their privacy and will closes the door when using the shower. Well then open the window and let some cold air in while you are taking a nice warn shower. I don't think so. Most showering fools don't like that idea either.

Ok one more idea keep the windows shut so you don't let the cold air in. Then lock the door so no on barges in on you. If you have a ventilation fan turn it on. This will at least pull fresh air in from under the door and send the moist air out of the house.

But the fan is so noisy and I can't enjoy my nice warm vapor producing shower that will eventually cause me to get sick from mold particles floating around in the air while I am using my bathroom.
Does this about sum it up for you and don't we all do this from time to time. We want to enjoy our shower time, so we close up everything and when we are in our bath sauna environment relaxing our house is getting some damaging moisture that could cause mold and mildew.

Open a window or door a little when you shower. Get some air circulating through the bathroom and prevent damage to your nice house.

Put up with a little inconvenience for you homes sake and your pocket book.

Greg Vanden Berge has been in the home building and remodeling business in California for over 30 years. With this knowledge he has created a few websites that provide useful information for home owners as well as contractors. His main goal is to educate professionals in the home related businesses, dealing with problems that can easily be avoided with just a little bit of information.

His website provides all kinds of answers to remodeling and new house building in North San Diego Home Remodeling Carlsbad Home Remodeling

Visit us now for Bathroom Ideas

Wood Retaining Wall

Mistakes in New Kitchen Design

Every designer and contractor experiences them, a kitchen that they wish would just go away. One small mistake snowballs into a full blown catastrophe, leaving everyone involved yelling at everyone else or maybe only speaking through lawyers. But most of the mistakes that cause such disasters are completely preventable. What follows in this two part article are some mistakes we've seen that you'd do well to avoid.

Cabinet Glazing

This is a process subject to varying results, and not everyone understands that. Basically what happens is this: cabinet manufacturers wipe an already stained door with a darker color paint, filling in all the cracks and crevices. Then they wipe this off, leaving the paint in the gaps and low spots. Sometimes, depending on how heavy the wiping hand was, there are traces of the paint left on the flat parts and each door or cabinet ends up being unique. Even though a set will consist of all the same colors, each cabinet will look a little different from the others. Some people don't understand this. Nowadays cabinet manufacturers make customers and designers sign a disclaimer stating that they understand things will look a little different than the door sample they saw.

Accurate Floor Plan Measurements

It is imperative that these are spot on. Many projects crash and burn because whoever took the measurements was just "pretty close." If measurements are underestimated, things may be ok; there are always filler strips. But if the designer thinks he's working with 6'-3" and there is really only 6'-1 1/2" available, there may be a problem. A workaround might be one smaller cabinet and a filler strip. Replacing a lazy susan corner cabinet farther up the line with a blind corner cabinet, and bumping it out the correct difference, is another idea. It all depends on how creative the designer is with the space kitchen area, and what sort of changes the homeowner can live with.

Remember the Ceiling

Utility cabinets are usually available in 84", 90", and 96". If someone has an 86" ceiling, they're all set, right? Not necessarily. How are they going to tip it into place? More than one screaming match has started over the best way to fit such a monster in a low ceilinged room. Is there another room with higher ceilings you can tip it up in? From there, it might be carried upright to the final resting place somehow, provided there are no low doorways on the way. Some manufacturers let you ship the toe space loose, effectively making it a 91 1/2" (in the case of a 96") cabinets. Once in place you can slip blocks underneath the cabinet up to attach the toe space and toe kick.

So far, I've shown you three problems that can lead to disasters in new kitchens and kitchen remodeling projects. While there are workarounds for each problem, it's best not having them in the first place. Stay tuned for Part II.

Craig Parker is a kitchen designer and performs Linux sysadmin duties at http://www.thecabinetfolks.com
The Cabinet Folks strive to provide quality kitchen and bath cabinets and stellar customer service at fair prices.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Repair Cracks in a Concrete Foundation

Leaking cracks in concrete foundations are a common problem for many homeowners. While the cracks are caused by the natural process of concrete curing and shrinking, the cracks can be an annoyance for the homeowner. That is because many homeowners want their basements to act as an added living space with carpeting, finished walls and furniture.

Concrete Foundation Shrinkage Crack Causes

First, all residential foundations crack. Concrete has water as an ingredient in the mix. As the concrete cures, it goes through a chemical process that causes it to harden into a solid. As it hardens, the concrete actually loses volume; that is it shrinks. In fact a concrete wall 100' long can shrink by as much as ".

The shrinkage process causes stress forces to develop in the concrete and to relieve the pressure, it cracks. This is okay because a concrete foundation has steel reinforcing bars inside that maintain the strength of the foundation wall. It is common to see cracks develop in the middle of a long wall, under a window or where the foundation steps down.

You will notice that the cracks are usually wider at the top of the foundation and get narrower as you go down the wall. Again, this is normal. You should rarely see the reverse and if so, it may be signs of structural problems with the foundation.

Water Penetration into a Foundation Crack

Water can enter a foundation crack from two directions, from the top of the crack or horizontally from the sides. If a foundation crack occurs at the corner of a basement window, it is possible for rainwater to enter the crack from the top where the window sits back from the edge of the foundation. The water will run down the inside the foundation wall and be forced out to the interior surface somewhere below where the crack gets narrower.

Also, improper grading can cause water to enter from the top. Low spots in the yard or sloping towards the house will cause water to enter at the top. A home with improper grading can cause rainwater to pool against the foundation and enter the crack.

Another way for water to enter a crack is horizontally below the ground (called below grade.) As it rains, the rainwater saturates the soil around a foundation and water enters the foundation crack. Again, the water enters the crack and begins running down inside of it until the crack narrows and is forced out to the interior of the basement. The homeowner will then see water seeping down the wall and onto the basement floor.

Repairing the Foundation Crack Leak

There are several ways to stop the water from entering a foundation crack and leaking into the basement. The first and most expensive way is to excavate along the foundation wall and exposing it. A contractor can then apply one of several different waterproofing membranes to the foundation wall.

This is the most expensive repair process since a large machine must be employed to excavate the foundation wall. It is not a feasible solution for most homeowners because of the time and expense of the repair. A typical repair process may take 2-3 days, depending on how much must be excavated. The excavation requires a large area around the home to place the removed soil. And any landscaping around the home must be removed.

Interior repairs are much more common and feasible for a homeowner. They can be done quickly and for little expense. A traditional interior repair entails a contractor chiseling out a vee-notch approximately 6" wide on the interior surface of the foundation wall and 4" deep. This notch narrows as it is made to about 1" in width at the back of the notch. The vee-notch is made the entire height of the foundation wall.

Once the notch is made, the contractor will then fill the crack with hydraulic cement. This cement actually expands a tiny amount and bonds to the existing foundation walls. The disadvantage to a vee-notch repair is that water can still penetrate halfway into the crack; that is the other 4" of foundation wall width.

As the water evaporates out and into the basement, it leaves behind salts that were dissolved in the water. These salts build up along the bond between the hydraulic cement and the foundation wall. Eventually these salts will cause the bond between the cement and wall to fail and allow water to enter again.

Also groundwater exerts a horizontal force called hydrostatic pressure. This pressure can be transferred directly to the cement in the crack and cause it be forced out of the vee-notch.

Crack Injection Foundation Repair

A better solution is to perform a urethane foam injection. For over 15 years urethanes have been used to stop water from leaking into a basement. The repair is performed by a technician inside the basement. The urethane enters the crack as a two part liquid that is mixed by a static mixer as it enters the crack.

The liquid urethane fills the crack completely, from front to back and bottom to top. When the urethane encounters water that is already in the crack or placed there by the technician, it begins to foam. This foaming process greatly increases the volume of the urethane and it fills the crack.

Since the crack is completely filled, no water can enter the foundation crack. So there is no problem of the dissolved salts breaking the bond of the urethane to the concrete foundation. Also the hydrostatic pressure can't force the urethane out because its bonding strength is much higher than hydraulic cement.

A typical repair can be done in one hour per crack.

A Dry Basement

With the foundation crack filled, the basement area will be dry and free of water. The outside landscaping is not disturbed and for little expense the basement becomes a usable area. Now the homeowner can safely install drywall, carpeting and furniture.

This article is written by Aaron Kuertz with Applied Technologies. Aaron has been in the waterproofing industry since 1998. Applied Technologies is a manufacturer and supplier to professional waterproofing contractors and homeowners in the United States. To learn more about concrete foundation crack repair visit Applied Technologies on the web.

Ceiling Repair Around Skylight

Remodel Instead of Selling Your Home - Home Tips

Why sell your home when you can remodel and create the home of your dreams

After living in your home for a long time, you may end up getting bored looking at the fixtures and decor of your home. The options you have for a change are to either sell the house and buy a new one, or a better option which is to remodel and create your dream home.

Buying a new home does not always prove to be a practical choice as you may have to shift the kids' school, spend more time commuting to your workplace, need more time getting accustomed to the stores and markets near you and of course, get your old home sold for the right price.

Keep your budget in mind

When remodeling your home, you will first have to keep your budget into consideration, if you have any additions or requirements to be added to your home and any particular style that you intend to implement in the house. The rooms that need most attention when remodeling are bathrooms and kitchens as these are the most used rooms, and have new accessories coming up that will make your rooms look much better than they were before.

Like if you lack a room for your kids or a guest room, consider adding this by perhaps adding an extra room to your home. You could consider transforming a basement to a game room or your garage into an apartment to give that extra space to your family.

If you like outdoor entertaining, you could consider adding a patio or deck to facilitate this. And if you are suddenly involved in becoming environmentally conscious, you could consider using environmentally friendly products in the remodeling of your home.

You get better rates by meeting neighborhood standards

Instead of just renovating and remodeling your home to your ideas and budget, with some research, you will be able to find out what changes will bring the best rate to your home in the future.

If you find out that your home is the only home that has only one bathroom, you could consider adding a bathroom to your home when remodeling. This is because if you can meet the neighborhood standard, you will be able to get a better rate for your home when selling it.

If you plan any additions to your home, make sure it is in proportion to the house. It should be an accent to the house, and not end up as a focal point. Your remodeling should always work to your benefit as it is not always that home buyers will like the house the way you have remodeled it.

Remodeling your home gets a better resale price

Remember that though you may be selling it in the future, you have to remodel it so that you are all comfortable in it till you sell it. It is not necessary to spend a fortune on remodeling; you can make quite an impact with a restricted budget.

Not only do you get a new home by remodeling your home, you also get extra years of pleasure, which may in turn increase the value of the home. This will fetch you a better price, if you intend to sell the house in the future.

James Tyler is the owner of Ace Builders, a residential remodeling company serving the Raleigh, North Carolina area. Tyler writes about issues relating to all types of remodeling and home improvement projects.

For more information, tips and advice visit http://www.acebuilders.net

Framing Wood Shower Pans - Bathroom Remodeling

Whether you live in a home that has a bathtub or a shower, there is a good chance that structural framing could be damaged if there was any water leaking around the plumbing fixtures. The damage should be repaired before framing your pan.

If you're replacing a bathtub and installing a new shower this is going to require constructing a wood shower pan. Now building a wood pan will require a level floor surface, shower damn and blocking.

Now let's start with building the shower damn. You're probably wondering what is a shower damn and what does it have to do with the wood shower pan. The shower damn is actually the area you climb over when entering into the shower. This part of the shower pan enables the water to flow off a shower curtain or door into the shower pan and down the drain.

The shower damn needs to be at the least 6 inches tall and would be best if it was at least 8 inches. You can use a 4 x 6 or a 4 x 8 for the wood shower damn.

Next we need to block the perimeter of the pan area in the wall framing that we will use for our shower walls also. These blocks should be at least 12 inches high. This would require using 2 x 12 lumber for blocking.

After you block the perimeter of the shower pan and installed the shower damn you are ready to have to shower water proffed with a process known as hot mopping the shower pan or using a vinyl liner.

Well I hope this gives you a better idea of what's involved when framing shower pans during the house framing process.

Greg Vanden Berge has been building and remodeling for over 30 years and his information has proven valuable to most contractors and homeowners all over the world. He usually tries to write at least two articles a day on home improvement or remodeling problems.

Greg is in the process right now of working on a home inspection website that will revolutionize the home inspection business. He is also working on a book to help homeowners and contractors as well as other home related professions in dealing with the home inspection process.

You can visit the home inspection website currently under construction at Home Inspection Help

Rancho Santa Fe Remodeling

Friday, March 20, 2009

Gas Tankless Water Heater - Installation and Maintenance

When you talk about a gas tankless water heater, very few people know the work involved in installing one. All that people really think about when you say gas tankless water heater is a tankless water heater that is heated by using gas. That is actually true, but how it is installed and then how it is actually used to heat water is a more complicated matter altogether.

Gas Water Heater Installation 101

A lot of people out there are DIY enthusiasts that believe they can always do a cheaper and better job at installing something than some overpriced professional out there. While that might be true in some aspects, installing the gas pipes and vents needed for a gas tankless water heater may require a little bit more than your average or above average building skills. Installation for these gas pipes require professionals who know the risks and safety measures needed to ensure that there are no leakages that can cause fires and accidents. A gas water heater, if installed inside the house, will need to have a gas pipe run to its heating system to fuel the burners that are used to heat up the passing water. Vents also need to be installed to ventilate the unit. There are gas tankless water heater units that can be installed outdoors. These kinds of tankless gas water heaters, like the Bosch 2400EO-NG natural gas outdoor water heater, helps eliminate the need for vents.

Are They Worth It?

This question has been asked about a lot of things. Jewelry, expensive clothes, women and gas tankless water heaters. About the others, you draw your own answers, about the water heater, favorable reviews say, YES. Not only do you have hot water in almost an instant but you have more of it as compared to having a hot water tank. While they might cost a bit more than the tank versions, they do save you more in the long run and are a whole lot safer. These things do have their flaws however, since instantaneous hot water may not be that instantaneous with a lag time of a few seconds to a few minutes, depending upon your present plumbing situation. They are, however, worth it considering the alternatives and the benefits you get from such a small piece of equipment.

Dean Iggo is the webmaster of Tankless Water Heaters review. A website providing unbiased reviews and ratings of the top selling brands of tankless waterheater including Bosch, Titan, Rheem, Rinnai and more.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Resolving Home Remodeling Problems - Remodeling Contractors

Your thinking about remodeling your home. You have asked everyone you know if they have a good contractor they trust or do they know anyone who does. You might have read a few articles like this or visited a couple of web sites to get as much information as you can about dealing with contractors during a house remodel.

Now the time has come for you to take the first step and call one of the contractors. You have spent some time looking through books and magazines to find just what you want done to your house. You have a idea of how much money you are going to spend if the job can be done exactly how you envision it.

You have called the city or county building department in your area to find out what is required from them in the way of building permits. If you have done some of these things you are ahead of most homeowners. There are a few of you that do know what can be done with a rough idea of how much the project will cost. A ball park figure lets say.

Most of the home remodeling Anxiety is caused from the miscommunication or no communication. The biggest problems I have had are from some sort of communication misunderstanding. I have been very lucky with having less than a handful of what I would consider a major home remodeling problem.

Do your best to explain what it is that you want done to your home. This also means understanding what it is exactly in writing what you are going to have done to your house. If you or the contractor do not understand this could lead to a possible anxiety attack and a problem.

Once you hire a home remodeling contractor the next step is to let them do their job. This doesn't mean. If you are watching them tear into a wall and the picture on the other side is about to fall off. Don't bother them. Of course stop them and remove the picture. We all make mistakes. If you see something isn't working out, talk to your contractor about it.

Don't be afraid of your contractor. If you see that what you had in mind isn't working out to your satisfaction. Explain the problem calmly and be to the point. I don't like it when someone beats around the bush and I never get to the problem. I would rather have them yelling at me, telling me what a jerk I am than taking two hours to make a point I have to drag out of them anyway.

If you do come to a problem that neither one of you can solve or you think the other one is at fault for whatever reason. You can contact the Department of Consumer Affairs and explain your situation to them. There is a good chance if you need a arbitrator they will set up a time and day for you and your contractor to meet. The arbitrator will come to a final decision for the both of you and that will be final. Of course their is always the Supreme Court... Well we don't want to go that far do we.

Most of the time if you have everything in writing in the form of a contract you shouldn't have any problems. If you do there is a great chance they will be able to be resolved quickly.
Doing major remodeling to your home can be extremely stressful at some points. Listen to your contractor when he is giving you advice on how to deal with the stress. He is a good source of wisdom especially if he had been doing it for years.

Resolving home remodeling anxiety will be a little more difficult during the construction process. It is very important to think the remodeling project through all the way to the end if you can. Try to think about worst case scenarios and figure out the best possible solutions before they happen.

Flying off the handle sometimes causes hammers and humans to lose their heads, as well as their effectiveness. William Arthur Ward

For more helpful home improvement information visit: http://www.gregvan.com

Greg Vanden Berge has been in the home building and remodeling business for over 30 years. With this knowledge he has created a few websites that provide useful information for home owners as well as contractors. His main goal is to educate professionals in the home related businesses, dealing with problems that can easily be avoided with just a little bit of information.

His website http://gregvan.com provides all kinds of answers to remodeling and new house building issues that could create major damage as well as possible damage to your pocket book.

Visit us now for Home Improvement Tips

How to Prevent Roof Ice Build-up From Causing Major Damage to Your House This Winter

You've seen it many times - a mass of heavy ice collecting at the eaves of a roof. But did you ever wonder why these hazardous (and dangerous) ice masses and icicles form? The answer is simple: Trapped heat in your attic melts the snow on your roof. The melting snow then trickles downward to the edges of the roof and re-freezes, over and over again, continually adding more ice mass, and eventually results in extreme havoc to the structure of your roof. You might not know the extent of the damage until it is way too late: Damage such as warping and detachment of eave troughs, fascia board warping, roof wood rot, and melting ice leaking into your house resulting in drywall and plaster stains. Why does this happen? You might be surprised by the answer. The power of ice is tremendous. When water freezes it expands and creates a huge force that pushes against anything in its way. This unstoppable force can bend steel like bubble gum. Imagine this huge level of pressure pushing against soft materials such as wood, aluminum, asphalt shingles, or bricks, concrete, and stone walls (all easy prey for ice dams). Clearly, the damage could be enormous.

What is the answer? Here it is: The only lasting solution to prevent roof ice damming is proper roof ventilation. Why? Because proper roof ventilation removes the trapped heat in your attic (the very heat that causes ice dams) and studies prove that a cool attic during winter stops the thaw/re-freeze cycle and thus stops the melting snow from re-freezing at the roof edges. But how does roof ventilation specifically prevent ice damming? The answer is to create an attic temperature that is close or the same to the temperature outside of the attic using specific roof/attic ventilation procedures such as soffit roof ventilation and ridge roof ventilation. Let's expand on these two types of roof ventilation. Soffit ridge ventilation is a system of openings along the perimeter of your roof. These openings are referred to as intake vents. Their purpose is to allow air to easily enter the underside of your roof which will then travel skyward to the top of your roof directly beneath the roof boards. Ridge ventilation (at the top of your roof) will now complete the process. Ridge ventilation is a continuous vent that is installed along the entire ridge (or top) of your roof, referred to as exhaust vents.

Using the wind, ridge ventilation pulls air out of the attic using an energy-free power source, namely Mother Nature. Wind creates a negative pressure that effectively pulls a constant stream of new air into the soffit vents, along the entire surface of the attic roof boards, and is then expelled out through the ridge vents. The outcome is substantial. With fresh air constantly being pumped throughout your roof's attic spaces, any trapped heat is removed. When this heat is removed, the temperature of your attic becomes close or equal to the outside temperature. The result is no melting snow that will dribble down and re-freeze at the eaves of your roof. As a final word of advice, be sure that the ridge vent is baffled. A baffle is simply a small curve on the ridge vent itself that creates the negative pressure that sucks the trapped heat out of your attic much more efficiently than ridge ventilation without baffles. Without this baffle, the effect will be minimal. Lastly, the ratio of soffit and ridge ventilation should be 50/50 for optimal results, meaning 50% soffit intake, and 50% ridge exhaust.

William Woolsey is the owner of Brookside Roofing and a Roofing/Attic Ventilation Specialist Serving Toronto Home Owners for Twenty-Five Years. Brookside Roofing Offers Residential Roofing Services for Asphalt, Slate Tiles, and Cedar Shake Roofs.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Shower Curtains - The Perfect Facelift For Your Bathroom

Curtains Make The Home:

In audience is an old axiom that says that the costume make the man. If this is true, then shouldn't skylight curtains make the room? Yet there are some that feel that curtains are not a major part of redecorating. This can lead to a decoration disaster. Curtains are more than just cloth that is hung to prevent light from entering a room. They are an elaborate part of home dcor that needs to be chosen carefully. The curtains hanging from your windows are what bringing a room together, giving it balance and concurrence.

Window curtains have come a long way in the past few decades, and are considered dressing for your windows. Interior designers spend innumerable hours flipping through swatches of cloth to choose the perfect material for curtains. They consider it to be a tedious task however when they find just the right piece, they are overjoyed. If you do not want to use the services of an interior designer, choosing the right window curtains is a matter of taking the time to go through magazines or doing an online search for window treatments. It is vital to the look of your home to choose right window curtain.

Hemp shower curtains are only one of its kind shower curtains. They offer the longevity and effectiveness of vinyl and polyester shower curtains and the look of the cotton and linen ones. The heavy fabric is made from plant fiber like linen or cotton. However, hemp is naturally antibacterial and anti fungal. For the environmentally conscious people hemp grows organically and gets colored with natural dyes. These shower curtains remain durable after many wash and dry cycles and don't require the use of a plastic liner.

You can get a designer description of things as mundane as safety pins so a shower curtain cannot be far off. These days' interior designers design fabrics for curtains of all types. Shower curtains are also designed by interior decorators. These are more expensive than the normal ones that you can get from the market. Whether you have the American patriotic look, the beach party look, the flower patch look, or any other dcor, a designer curtain can be made to fit the look of your bathroom. There are sites on the net which will do up the curtains or you can also contact a designer you know or have heard of in your city to design an amazing looking curtain for your bathroom. A simpler type of curtain is a cafe curtain, which you usually find in a kitchen. These curtains are usually of light material and often have decorative designs that go well in a kitchen. These are the kinds of curtains you often imagine blowing in the wind in a kitchen.

Suchlike type of curtain or window handling you need, finding one that you like and that goes with your decor can sometimes be a challenge. In addition, if you need bigger drapes or curtains, they can cost quite a bit. However, drapes and curtains are often a longer term investment since you don't usually change them out every year, so find the ones that you like, and hopefully you will soon have a lovely window area to have the benefit of.

You can also find more info on Hospital Curtains and Safety Light Curtains. Homecurtainsonline.com is a comprehensive resource to know about Curtains & Drapes.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

How to Go Green by Using an Alternative Source of Energy

Going green is a very popular term right now and for good reason. Basically what it means is altering your life style in ways that produce less waste and harmful emissions so you can help the environment.

Many people do things like:

Car pooling

Using reusable containers

Composting

Turning lights off

Not running the water

Washing in cold

Hanging clothes to dry

All of these methods help reduce harmful affects on our environment but you personally do not see any physical benefits - other then self satisfaction knowing you're doing your part. Doing the things listed above is okay for some people but most people think that it doesn't make a difference, at least they don't see at difference.

What if you could help the environment by reducing or eliminating the amount of electricity your house uses?

What if you could save thousands of dollars a year by switching to a green alternative source of energy? Would you want to learn how?

Switching to a green alternative source of energy.

The best way to save money is reducing or eliminating your electricity bill. How do you do this? The answer is simple, start harnessing a source of renewable energy that you have FREE access to everyday, the sun or wind!

Both the sun and wind produce enough energy to power your entire home plus have extra to store in generators. The cheapest and fastest way to go about doing this is doing it yourself. You need to purchase a do it yourself guide that shows you in detail exactly how you can build, install and store energy that you have access to all the times.

Why pay for energy when you have access to an unlimited amount in your backyard? Instead of spending thousands of dollars a year paying for electricity learn how you can start to use a FREE source and save your money. Spend it on things you want to do instead of giving it to power companies to help destroy our environment. Learn how you can use Green Renewable Energy and start living your life in a greener manner - helping save the planet while saving you money!

Sink Vent Pipe In Wall Framing

Monday, March 16, 2009

How to Attach a Zinc Frame to Stained Glass

A zinc frame on stained glass panels is essential for structure and rigidity. The zinc frame is added once the design is cut, foiled and soldered. The process of adding a zinc frame is accomplished by following seven steps.

  1. First, measure the length of zinc came needed for each side.
  2. Then, decide if you want straight cuts or mitered cuts for the corners.
  3. Using a came saw or a fine tooth hack saw, cut the zinc came to the length and angle you need. Initially, you may want to cut the pieces long then re-cut once you dry fit the came to the stained glass piece.
  4. Once you have all the zinc came cut and fitted to your piece, insert the glass into the came channels and hold zinc in place using t-pins. If you are using Handy Hangers, you would insert them into the came corners during this step.
  5. Now flux the corners of the came frame and all the solder seams that touch the frame
  6. Then, solder each joint of the frame and the adjacent solder seams.
  7. Once, the first side is done, carefully turn the piece over and repeat the process on that side.

To apply hanging rings to the zinc frame, lightly flux the ring and the area of the frame where the ring will be attached. The area in which you attach the rings should be where the zinc frame meets a solder seam. Next, solder the rings to the zinc frame. Be sure the ring extends over the edge of the frame. If you are going to add a wood frame to the stained glass piece do not attach rings to the zinc frame.

Hanging rings can be purchased or easily made by using copper or silver wire. To make your own hanging rings, wrap wire around a pencil or other object to get the diameter you need. Then simply cut it, making a small circle. If you need stronger rings, cut two or three lengths of wire and twist them together. The twisting can be done easily by placing one end of the strands in a vice and the other end into the chuck of a drill. Rotate slowly until the desired amount of twisting is completed. Then wrap the twisted wire around a pencil or other object and cut.

After zinc frame is attached, be sure to use flux remover and remove all flux residue.

Some areas of concern:

Please note that zinc frames are available in different sizes, widths. Each one, however, laps over the edge of the glass the same amount. So, the only reason for going to a larger width is looks. Additional strength may be gathered if your stained glass piece is extremely large. Any piece over 30" wide or tall should definitely be framed in the largest size zinc frame available.

Mitered cuts look better in my opinion, especially if you are not using a wood frame. Actually miter cuts are not that much harder to accomplish, so why not be professional in the first place? Small electrical frame cutters, 2" blade, are available for around $20. This is worth it in my opinion.

When mounting frame on your art work, be sure that all edges of the glass are secured into the full depth of the zinc frame. Otherwise, you will experience dissatisfaction after you solder the pieces together. As mentioned, T-pins are suggested to be sure and hold the frame tightly anchored to edge of the glass and deep into the channel of the zinc frame.

When soldering the corners or the seam lines connecting the frame, you will see a slight rise to the solder. It is common to see the actual solder at these points, but after patina is applied, these blend together and look fine. Be careful as to not build up too much solder at these locations or this may be highly visible when finished.

After soldering the first side and then turning the art work over to solder the second side, examine the frame to see that it is in the correct position before soldering. Sometimes it can get "adjusted" when you turn the piece over.

I highly suggest the using hanging rings that have been twisted together as these are much stronger and tend not to pull apart after the art work has been hanging for some time. I have experienced single wire hooks actually failing and a piece or two has dropped and broken. Save yourself grief (take it from me) and only use the twisted, therefore stronger hanging rings.

If using a wood frame, a better look is always produced by mitering the corners of the wood. Simple 45 degree cuts on the end of all frame members easily accomplish this. When mechanically attaching these pieces of frame, I strongly suggest the use of a good carpenter's glue and one screw for long term hanging safety. Additionally, wood frames come in all sizes, including width, thickness and specie of wood. Decide how you want to finish them, paint or stain. This will enable you to use the right wood for the right job and not end up painting oak wood. Oak is too expensive and beautiful to hide under paint in my opinion. Mechanical hanging fasteners that include screws into the wood should be used.

I started out as a stained glass admirer. After a class in stained glass, I became addicted. At first I made stained glass to decorate my homes, which lead to friends asking me to make stained glass for them. Now I am a full time professional making stained glass as well as instructing others on how to make stained glass. My studio is located outside of Chicago, Illinois. For more information on making stained glass or to sign up for my newsletter, go to http://www.creativity-in-glass.com

Bathrooms

Creating the Perfect Home Remodeling Priority List

Home remodeling is one of those projects that can be fun or a pain in the -- you know what. It is best to start your home remodeling plan with one room at a time and decide on the value of each room to prioritize where to save and where to spend. This article will look at the value of each room to help you deiced the type of home remodeling project you may consider.

The big debate on what room is the most used room in the house could go on forever. Some say it is the kitchen others say it is the living room while others say the master bedroom. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and you can use some basic rules to see what the highest priority is for you.

If you have kids then you probably spend more time than you like in the kitchen cooking. If you have a smaller family maybe the kitchen is just a place where you are in and out. If you cook allot then the kitchen should get some very high consideration for your home remodeling project.

Do you like to play games and watch TV? If you find yourself or your family watching television often and you perhaps enjoy family night games then you should place the family room at the top of your list. Maybe it is time to add family room to your home remodeling ideas. Perhaps you could remodel a spare bedroom or add a new room to the house.

Do you have guest spend the night often? You may want to think about making a nice guest bathroom with all the luxuries of a five star hotel for your guest. Do not do this unless you love to have people stay awhile and come often. They are likely to really enjoy visiting you.

When planning your home remodeling ideas you will find that they become much easier with a good priority system. Once you know which rooms are the most important to you and your lifestyle then that is where the money should be spent on nicer upgrades. On rooms that are not high on the list, but still need some fixing you could use less expensive things to fix them up.

Find more helpful remodeling tips by visiting http://best-home-improvement-projects.com where you will find helpful remodeling tips, advice and resources to include Home Remodeling.

Patio Covers

Saturday, March 14, 2009

I Asked Myself, Is Tap Water Safe For Bathing and Showering?

I reckon very few of us take time to think about the quality of the water we use at home for non-drinking purposes. Perhaps we should, as I discovered some alarming data which indicates that certain contaminants could be affecting our health and well being.

Is tap water safe for bathing and showering is an intriguing question. A good many of us may have pondered over the cleanliness or purity of our tap water for drinking but never given a second thought to its other uses.

Maybe it's time we took a closer look at what's in our water that some experts say might be detrimental to our health. This article will look at a few of the relevant points.

Surely there is nothing more relaxing than having a nice soak in a bathtub or enjoying a refreshing hot shower after a hard days work. However, such innocent and commonplace activities need one vital thing, hot water, which produces steam. It's what else is in steam that concerns me, namely the chemical chlorine.

It's used extensively by municipal water treatment plants to kill off any bacteria and viruses present and it performs that task reasonably well and efficiently. But by the time that water reaches our homes there is still a residual amount left. So, under hot, steamy conditions like taking a shower or bath any chlorine will evaporate and become gaseous, and this vapor is what we breathe in and our bodies absorb.

Some analysis of this has indicated that we ingest much more of this toxic chemical from showering than from simply drinking tap water. If you have a respiratory condition like asthma or bronchitis it could aggravate the condition. For those of you who would like a solution there is one in the form of fitting a shower head filter, which will remove not just the chlorine but other contaminants.

Peter Foremski is Editor of http://www.water-filter-guide.com and cares passionately about the quality of water that he drinks and uses. He runs an informational website that uncovers the best products and where to buy them with the best discounts. So begin your 'thirst' for knowledge here.

What Causes Attic Odors And Stra

Bathroom Vanities - The Antique Look Without the Hassle

Though many people enjoy the look of modern bathroom fixtures and all of the luxuries they contain, others prefer the older look of long ago, a gentler, romantic time.

With the demand of antique dcor for the home and especially the bathroom, a number of companies are starting to make more furniture and fixtures that have an antique look, but don't have the problems that occur with the real thing. If you are planning an antique look for your bathroom, consider taking a look at the new vanities that look old before heading out to second hand stores.

The old look for a bathroom vanity is awesome, true; however, have you even pondered the plumbing that goes with the fixture you are thinking of? The plumbing and the sturdiness of the antique vanity can create problems for you. After you have rethought this, you will probably see why the new vanity is the better choice.

New furnishings give you the look you want, the antique feeling, but not the worries of trying to integrate old furnishings into a newer home.

There have been huge advancements made since those old bathroom vanities were designed. Vanities made today function better and high quality choices are more durable than ever before. You will still have the look you are going for, but without all the problems that a real antique vanity will bring to you.

There are many drawbacks of buying an actual antique bathroom vanity. First, you will be paying a high price to purchase one that is still in good condition. Next, you will have to restore it. This takes time and money, and in the end, it would have been cheaper and less time consuming to buy the one that looks like an antique, but is without the worries of a used, old vanity.

When you think about the work and money involved, it could be more reasonable to go with the new version that has the older look you want. Although the older vanities are pretty and will look great, you don't want the problems that could go with them.

Before you spend too much money and time on an antique vanity, consider the options. You are the boss here, if you want to spend the money, go with the one you want, it is your bathroom. But, if you want a functional one that looks great, for half the worry and cost, take a look at purchasing a new vanity in the look and style that you want.

Visit us for more information on Discount Bathroom Vanity Tips, Remodel A Small Bathroom - And Keep Your Bathroom Vanity and Bedroom Vanity Design.

Ceiling Water Damage

Stair Building Books

Where do we go to buy stair building books? Do we go to the major retailers like Amazon or Barnes & Noble? I have found over the years the information in most of these books I have purchased from these stores has a lot of fluff with very little common sense stair building application.

I bought one stair building book that had information on handrails. The front cover looked great and I thought this was going to be a great book reading the reviews from Amazon. When I finally got the book in the mail, I would say about one third of it was math tables for building elaborate wooden hand railing's. These tables were not easy to understand along with the rest of the book.

Back when I bought the book on building stair handrails it dawned on me that most of the construction workers I have met during my 30 years of working in the field were not very good outside of basic math. Now I knew a lot of carpenters that could read a measuring tape and use a framing square pretty good. But when it came to advanced geometrical construction projects like a stair hand railing system this was out of our league.

Reading this book or should I say parts of it gave me an idea to write a book of my own, starting with basic stair building I took all the fluff or the hard to understand advanced stair building applications out of my book, How to Build a Straight Set of Stairs.

I put a lot of time into creating an illustration for every possible part of building a simple set of stairs. I have probably built over 2000 sets of stairs during my lifetime and have explained and taught basic and advanced stair building to other carpenters. Understanding what parts of the stair construction process they understood, I was able to improve my skills as a stair building teacher.

Most people do not need advanced stair building skills to construct a simple straight set of stairs. If you are building a straight set of stairs and would like a stair building book with lots of easy to understand illustrations along with simplified directions you have found it.

We're building more stair building books to help contractors, carpenters, handymen and homeowners understand the stair building process.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Moisture Against Gravity - Destroying Walls

Well I'm going to start this article with a little information on a job I did once.

I had been repairing a rental house for one particular homeowner for about three years when all of a sudden I got a phone call from him telling me the rental house was destroyed and he had never seen nothing like this. He sounded so upset over the phone I told him I would meet with him immediately.

On my way to the house I was trying to get an idea in my head what the house was going to actually look like. Since I have been repairing rental properties for over 20 years at this point of my career, nothing really shocked me. I had pretty much seen everything that could possibly be done to rental property by the tenants that lived there. There is a lot to be said about taking care of it as if it were your own.

He was waiting for me at the front door and he looked thoroughly disgusted. As I approached him he was shaking his head and yelling at the same time can you believe these people, can you believe what they did to my house. I was expecting to see the front door ripped off and all the windows broken out of the house but this wasn't the case.

As he led me through the home and I could see the usual clothing on the floor, broken cabinets, a few holes in the walls and of course that awful smell of mold and mildew. All of this stuff was nothing new to me because I'm the guy they call to fix it when a renter moves out of the property.

As I entered one of the bedrooms I got my first glimpse of something I had never seen before but heard stories about and could not believe my eyes. Looking at the walls in the bedroom about 3 feet from the floor all the way around the room, the plaster was soft. It actually looks like someone shoved popcorn into the wall somehow.

The homeowner wasn't even looking at this because of the rest of the damage in the home. I started to explain to him I'd never seen nothing like this but I could guess it was water damage somehow since the plaster was soft. I could actually stick my finger into the wall, that's how soft the plaster was.

My first thought was to examine the carpeting a little closer to see if it was wet. Well it was damp but it wasn't as wet as I would've expected it to be with the amount of water in the walls. With a little more home inspecting I had found the culprit, it was a broken water bed. The water bed was now in the backyard looking innocent.

I couldn't believe a broken water bed could do this much damage so I looked around for broken or leaking water pipes and could not find any. The other bad news I had to inform the homeowner was that the water had damage the bathroom and closet walls also. These walls of course were on the other side of the bathroom walls that were damaged.

Well the point of this story is that water will actually wick its way up or worked its way up into a wall. I had to remove 4 feet of drywall all the way around the room. The plaster or drywall actually acts like a sponge pulling the water into the walls. Hard to imagine that gravity in this case seems to reverse. I would've never thought that water would've traveled so far up the walls creating that much damage.

To repair the rental property I had to remove the damaged drywall, remove the carpeting, dry the wood framing out and put the whole thing back together.

I'm still amazed and will remember that project for as long as I live.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on House Water Damage

Shower Seat Hot Moped With Tar

New Versus Old Lumber - Structural Failure

During my 30 years of remodeling and building new homes. I have ran across quite a bit of structural framing failures. I find myself answering this question a lot when explaining to a homeowner about the structural failure I am repairing on their home, "Why Didn't They Use Better Lumber" or " Why Didn't They Use Larger Lumber." I really have a hard time answering these questions because I honestly don't know the answer.

However I can try to use some logic and reason to give these people an answer that seems to make sense to both of us. Why didn't they use better lumber, quite simply because, with most older homes that were built before the 1970s they actually do have better lumber. Now you're probably thinking how can these homes have better lumber when the lumber is old versus the new lumber used in a brand new house.

Most of the structural repairs I have made over the years has nothing to do with the lumber and whether it was new or old. A large number of these repairs were caused by neglect and poor maintenance.

The lumber in most older houses are from older growth trees. Some of these trees were extremely large and only the premium parts of the trees were used. The premium lumber is cut farthest away from the center of the tree. Now the larger the tree it makes sense that there will be more premium lumber.

A large majority of the newer lumber used in home construction comes from trees about 6 inches in diameter. Now you're probably wondering how can they cut a 2 x 8 piece of lumber out of a 6 inch tree. Of course they cannot, the larger lumber comes from larger trees.

Most 2 x 4's that are less than 8 foot long can be cut from these trees. This scrap or waste that comes from cutting these two by fours will now go into engineered building materials like particleboard, oriented strand board and engineered beams. Another name for an engineered been would be a paralam.

I hope you're starting to get the picture now when it comes to using new or old lumber. There are companies that are going into old logging rivers and retrieving old growth lumber. These were logs that sank to the bottom of the river's and were never retrieved because it was too costly.

The old growth lumber is quite expensive. Who's to say what problems we will happen in the future from the newer products created with modern day technology. When it comes to building houses it is not an exact science and as contractors we have been repairing the damage from poor engineering for years.

When I use the word poor engineering I am not pointing fingers at engineers. We now have more knowledge about home construction then we had years ago.

New versus old lumber, who wins the battle. Only time will tell.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes and Structural Repairs.

Pipe Protector On 2 X 4

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Energy-Star Appliances Can Help You Save Money

Your household appliances are responsible for a large percentage of the energy consumed in your home. As a matter of fact, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) approximates that kitchen appliances account for almost half of the $2,000 that most average families spend on utilities each year. In addition, appliances that are over 10 years old use more energy than their newer counterparts.

The Energy Star classification system was created by the EPA and the US Dept of Energy (DOE). This system identifies home appliances that decrease energy consumption, lower your utility bills and improve the air quality in your home. Energy Star appliances are usually more expensive than traditional models but the savings in daily energy usage will help them pay for themselves in the long term. Some Energy Star appliances can even save you up to half of the energy you use each day.

Understanding Your EnergyGuide Label:

All Energy Star appliances are required to have an EnergyGuide label. This label displays the model number, features, size and capacity of the appliance. In addition, the label estimates the average energy usage and operation costs of the model per year.

Each label also displays a range of energy used per year by similar models so that you can comparison shop and determine if this particular model meets your needs.

Standard Features of Energy Star Appliances:

Refrigerators:

Use up to 40% less electricity.

Savings of up to $150 each year.

Dishwasher:

Use 50% less water.

Use over 40% less energy.

Save $90 over the lifetime of your dishwasher.

Clothes Washer:

Use 50% less water.

Reduce drying time by extracting more water in the spin cycle.

Less wear and tear on your clothing.

Use up to 40% less electricity.

Savings of up to $110 each year.

Dehumidifier:

Use between 10 - 20% less electricity.

Savings of approximately $30 each year.

Household Air Conditioner:

Use 10% less energy.

Save approximately $250 over the lifetime of your air conditioner.

Investing in Energy Star appliances will help you save on monthly utility costs and reduce emissions in your home and the environment. It's an easy way to save yourself some money plus do your part for the environment.

Gwen McIntyre is a Marketing Manager for PartSelect.com. PartSelect.com is a provider of appliance repair parts to help repair your home appliances. Partselect has a full selection of appliance parts for all major appliance manufacturers.

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Pools Can Add Value To Your Home

If you're looking to enhance the value of your home, either to resell or for your own personal enjoyment, you might be looking for a pool to increase that value and enjoyment. Here is a comparison of ideas that might help you make that decision a little more easily.

An in-ground pool can run you several thousand dollars but since they come with a variety of shapes and sizes they give you the greatest amount of versatility. You can have a slide and a diving board and a deep end, and if you have a square pool it is easy to swim laps. The shallow end is suitable for water games and youngsters who are learning to swim.

An aboveground pool is much cheaper than an in-ground pool but requires additional decking and fencing for privacy and convenience. Also, the deep end is not very deep and since they are usually round they're difficult to swim laps in. These are good, however, for splashing around on a hot summer afternoon.

However, if you're looking at an aboveground pool you may find that a cheaper but equal alternative is to purchase a large inflatable pool that is big enough for several members of your family. These are not those tiny "kiddie pools" that you see in people's yards. These are actually quite large inflatable pools but are also only suitable for splashing around and not for swimming.

An alternative that many people don't think of is a current pool. These might go under a different name depending on where you live and they are perfect for the serious swimmer who likes to swim laps and does not have a lot of room in their backyard. Sometimes measuring about 8 feet wide and 15 feet long these pools may not seem useful for very much but they create a current, like in a river, that pushes against you as you swim. That way you stay in one place swimming against the current, unlike in a current-less pool where you swim from side to side.

Another alternative is to buy a hot tub instead of a swimming pool. For young children, a hot tub full of non-heated water will still be as enjoyable since the children don't swim but just splash around. And the adults can turn up the heat in the evening and relax.

A swimming pool can be an expensive investment, especially if you don't put a lot of consideration into its usage beforehand. Take some time to think about what your swimming pool needs are now and in the future.

Jeff Lakie is the founder of Pools Information a website providing information on Pools

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Advantages of Framing With Steel Studs

I have heard all sorts of stories over the years of the advantages in framing with steel versus wood studs. One time I even heard you could build an entire house with the amount of recycled steel from a large automobile such as a Cadillac. I find this hard to believe unless you're building a very small home.

My personal favorite for framing with steel studs is that they are extremely straight. I have built nonbearing partition walls using 12 foot 3 1/2 inch wide steel studs and after the drywall you can lay an 8 foot level to check it for straightness on the wall with amazing results.

If you use 3 1/2 inch wide steel studs with 5/8 of an inch drywall you will get an extremely durable and sturdy wall. Framing was steel studs is common in office renovations or remodeling. Most of the steel stud framing is done via the drywall contractors.

Steel studs and termites do not mix. You'll never have to worry about these little buggers or other uninvited house pests damaging your walls.

Over the years I have heard stories that steel framed buildings are earthquake and fire proof. They might be more resistant to fire than wood but keep in mind when metal is hot enough it will bend and warp making it unusable.

When I hear people talking about a fireproof building built with metal framing components my first thought is all of the other materials used in building the house that are not fire resistant. Don't get a false illusion when buying a house framed with steel studs and think it is 100% fire proof.

As far as steel framed buildings being earthquake proof this is another story. I really can't comment too much on earthquake damage to a steel building. The problem with earthquakes is they seem to create fires. So even if you're building does survive an earthquake it could get damaged by a fire in the area.

I have framed more wood homes than steel homes over the years and my steel stud construction is limited to nonbearing partition walls usually located in office buildings. I love framing with metal because of its light weight and ease of construction.

I still love framing with wood. There is something about what framing that I have always loved and always will.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as

well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on House Framing Ideas

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Installing Beadboard Panels

Beadboard is great for heavily used areas in the home. Beadboard is ideal for walls in kitchens, bathrooms and hallways or anywhere where there is a high likelihood of the walls to be regularly scuffed or scratched. Typically it is fastened to the lower half of walls and is topped off with a piece of cap rail.

Contrary to installing strips, installing beadboard panels is relatively an easy project for the do-it-yourself homeowner. Beadboard panels come in 4'x8' sheets that have been manufactured to look exactly like a series of tongue and grooved beadboard strips fastened together. They are relatively lightweight and can be cut using a table saw.

Tools Required:

  • Table Saw or Circular Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Level
  • Pencil
  • Hammer
  • Screw Driver
  • Tape Measure
  • Safety Glasses
  • Paint Brush

Materials Required

  • Nails
  • Beadboard panels
  • Cap Rail
  • Baseboard Trim
  • Corner Molding
  • Vapor Barrier
  • Paint / Polyurethane

Before installing panels in a room it is best to allow the boards to sit in the room for 2 or 3 days. This allows the panels to stabilize relative to the temperature and humidity of the room.

Installation starts with removing any baseboard trim that may be on the wall. Also remove outlet and switch covers that are located in the area where the beadboard is to be installed.

To install the beadboard panels, first start in a corner of the room and make a mark with a pencil at the top location of where you want to have the board to come to. Using a level and either a chalk line or pencil, make/draw a line the entire length of the wall at this height. You want to make sure that your line is level.

Next, place a section of trimmed panel up against the wall in the corner where you first made your mark. The trimmed panel should be cut to a height to allow it to be placed on the line and still have 1/8 to inch of clearance at the bottom. The gap at the bottom is necessary for thermal expansion of the panels.

When placing this first piece of trimmed panel up against the wall you will probably need to trim the edge of it to make it plumb with the wall. It is important that you do this to ensure that the vertical lines of the beadboard run perfectly perpendicular to the floor.

When securing the panel to the wall, leave about a 1/8th inch gap between the end of the panel and the corner to allow for thermal expansion. Likewise leave a 1/8th inch gap around doors and windows and cutouts for electrical outlets and switches.

To secure the beadboard panels to the wall, it is important to make sure you nail the panels to wall studs. Make sure you use finishing nails that are long enough to penetrate 3/4th of an inch to 1 inch into the wall studs.

The nails should be placed 6 to 8 inches apart along the edge of the panels and approximately inch in from the edge of the panel.

If you are installing the beadboard in an area where there is high moisture content you should use non-corrosive nails. Also, if you are installing it in a basement area a vapor barrier should be tacked on the wall first prior to installation.

After you have fully nailed the first panel in place, continue along the length of the wall installing the next panel. Make sure to fully nail each panel in place prior to moving on to the next panel.

Once you have completed the installation of the beadboard in the room, secure a cap rail to the top of the panels, and fasten baseboard trim to the bottom of them. In the corners attach corner molding.

Depending upon what type of finished look you want, either seal the beadboard paneling with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane or paint.

About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mark Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. For more information about Home Additions and Home Improvement, and Home Remodeling and Repair visit homeadditionplus.com and homeaddition.blogspot.com

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